5 Signs of Hail Damage on Your Roof You Can't See
Learn the hidden signs of hail damage on your roof that are invisible from the ground. Expert guidance from Southeast Michigan's trusted roofing contractor since 1988.
We get the call every spring and summer in Southeast Michigan: "A storm just came through with golf ball-sized hail. Should I be worried about my roof?"
Here's the truth most homeowners don't realize — the worst hail damage isn't the stuff you can see from your driveway. It's the hidden compromises happening at the shingle level, the kind that shorten your roof's lifespan by years and create slow leaks you won't notice until water stains appear on your ceiling.
After 35 years of Detroit roofing services and hundreds of insurance claims across Macomb, Oakland, and St. Clair counties, we've learned exactly what to look for. This isn't about selling you a new roof — it's about helping you document legitimate damage before your insurance claim window closes.
Let's walk through the five signs of hail damage on your roof you can't see from the ground, why they matter, and what to do if you find them.
Sign #1: Granule Loss on Asphalt Shingles
The ceramic granules on the surface of asphalt shingles aren't decorative — they're the primary defense against UV radiation, heat, and impact. When hail strikes a shingle, it doesn't always crack the surface. Instead, it knocks loose clusters of these granules, exposing the asphalt mat underneath.
From ground level, this looks like nothing. Up close on the roof, you'll see bare spots, often circular or irregular in shape, where the black asphalt backing shows through. These spots are now vulnerable to accelerated weathering.
In Michigan's climate, with freeze-thaw cycles running from November through April, exposed asphalt deteriorates fast. The UV exposure breaks down the petroleum-based binder, the mat becomes brittle, and within a few seasons, you're dealing with cracked, curling shingles that leak.
What to look for: Check your gutters and downspouts after a hailstorm. If you see an unusual accumulation of granules — they look like coarse sand, often dark gray or the color of your shingles — that's a red flag. Normal granule loss happens gradually over 15-20 years. Sudden accumulation after a storm means impact damage.
We see this constantly on homes in Sterling Heights and Warren with architectural shingles from CertainTeed, GAF, or Owens Corning. The shingles look fine from the street, but when we're up there documenting for an insurance claim, we're finding dozens of impact points per square.
Sign #2: Bruising and Mat Damage You Can't See
This is where it gets technical, and where most homeowners miss the damage entirely.
An asphalt shingle is a layered composite: fiberglass mat at the core, asphalt coating for waterproofing, and granules on top. When hail hits hard enough, it compresses the asphalt layer without necessarily breaking through the granule surface. This creates what we call "bruising" — soft spots in the shingle that compromise its structural integrity.
You can't see bruising from the ground. Even from a ladder, it's subtle. But if you press gently on the shingle surface and feel a spongy give, or if the shingle feels softer in certain spots compared to others, that's mat damage.
Why does this matter? Because bruised shingles lose their ability to shed water effectively. The compressed areas create micro-depressions where water can pool. In Michigan winters, that water freezes, expands, and accelerates cracking. By the time you notice a leak, the damage has spread to multiple shingles and possibly the underlayment.
This type of damage is especially common after storms with hail larger than 1 inch in diameter. We documented this extensively after the severe storms that hit Oakland County in recent years, where homeowners had no visible damage but failed roofs within 3-4 years.
Sign #3: Fractured Fiberglass Mat
The fiberglass mat is the skeleton of your shingle. When hail impact is severe enough, it can fracture this mat without creating an obvious surface crack. Think of it like a hairline fracture in a bone — the structure is compromised, but it's not immediately visible.
Fractured mats are nearly impossible to spot without close inspection, and even then, you're often looking for indirect signs: slight buckling, a barely perceptible crease, or a shingle that doesn't lie flat the way its neighbors do.
The real problem shows up later. A fractured mat can't maintain the shingle's waterproof seal. Wind-driven rain finds its way through the fracture, especially during Michigan's spring storms when we get heavy, sustained rainfall. Water infiltrates the underlayment, then the roof deck, then your attic — and by the time you see the ceiling stain in your bedroom, you're looking at a multi-thousand-dollar repair that goes way beyond shingles.
This is one of the reasons we recommend professional roof inspection after any significant hail event. Our crews are trained to spot these fractures by flexing shingles slightly (never enough to cause damage) and looking for resistance patterns that indicate internal compromise.
Insurance note: Many adjusters will miss fractured mats during their initial inspection. Having documentation from a CertainTeed Master Shingle Applicator — like our team at NEXT Exteriors — carries weight when you're making the case for coverage.
Sign #4: Damaged Roof Penetrations and Flashing
Hail doesn't just hit shingles. It hits everything: plumbing vents, exhaust pipes, chimney flashing, skylight frames, ridge vents.
These penetrations are the most vulnerable points on your roof because they're where different materials meet — metal flashing against asphalt shingles, rubber boots around PVC pipes, aluminum caps on ridge vents. Hail impact can dent metal flashing, crack rubber boots, or separate sealant joints.
From the ground, you see nothing. From the roof, we're finding:
- Dented or creased metal flashing around chimneys, which creates gaps where water can enter
- Cracked rubber boots on plumbing vents, which let water run straight down into your attic
- Compromised sealant around skylight frames, leading to leaks that homeowners assume are skylight defects
- Damaged ridge vent caps, which reduce attic ventilation and contribute to ice dam formation in winter
We see this constantly in homes across Royal Oak and Grosse Pointe Farms, especially on older roofs where the flashing and boots were already nearing the end of their service life. The hail just accelerates the failure.
This is also where attic insulation and ventilation become part of the conversation. If hail damages your ridge vents and you don't catch it, your attic ventilation suffers. Poor ventilation means heat buildup in summer and moisture accumulation in winter — both of which shorten your roof's lifespan and drive up energy costs.
Sign #5: Gutter and Downspout Damage as a Diagnostic Tool
Here's something most homeowners don't realize: your gutters and downspouts are the best diagnostic tool for assessing hail severity.
If hail was large and forceful enough to damage your roof, it hit your gutters too. And unlike shingles, gutters show impact damage clearly — dents, dings, paint chips, and deformation.
When we're called out for a hail damage inspection, the first thing we do is walk the perimeter and look at the gutters. If we're seeing quarter-sized dents on the gutter faces, we know the roof took similar or worse impact. If the downspouts have visible creases or the gutter hangers are bent, that tells us the storm had serious force behind it.
This correlation is important for insurance claims. Adjusters know that gutter damage and roof damage go hand in hand. If your gutters are beat up but the adjuster says your roof is fine, that's a red flag — either they didn't inspect closely enough, or they're not accounting for the hidden damage we've been talking about.
We frequently handle seamless gutter replacement in Detroit alongside roof work after major storms, because the two systems are so interconnected. A new roof with damaged gutters is like putting new tires on a car with bad brakes — you're not getting the full benefit.
Pro tip: Take photos of your gutters immediately after a hailstorm, before you even schedule an inspection. Time-stamped photos with visible damage strengthen your insurance claim and create a paper trail if the adjuster initially denies coverage.
When to Call a Professional Inspector
Here's the reality: most homeowners shouldn't be climbing on their roofs. It's dangerous, you don't have the training to know what you're looking at, and you can accidentally cause damage that voids your insurance coverage.
Call a licensed roofing contractor with storm damage experience if:
- You experienced a hailstorm with stones 1 inch or larger in diameter
- Your neighbors are getting roof inspections or filing claims
- You see visible damage to gutters, siding, or outdoor fixtures
- You notice granule accumulation in gutters or downspouts after a storm
- Your homeowner's insurance has a claim deadline approaching (typically 1 year from the storm date in Michigan)
At NEXT Exteriors, we offer free storm damage inspections because we know how critical timing is. We're not there to sell you a roof you don't need — we're there to document what happened and give you the information to make an informed decision.
As a CertainTeed Master Shingle Applicator — the highest credential in the roofing industry — our inspections carry weight with insurance adjusters. We know the technical language, we understand material failure modes, and we document everything with photos and written reports that meet insurance company standards.
We've worked with hundreds of homeowners across Macomb County, Oakland County, and St. Clair County through the claims process, and we know what adjusters are looking for. If there's legitimate damage, we'll find it and help you document it properly.
Cost and Insurance Considerations for Michigan Homeowners
Let's talk money, because that's what most of these conversations eventually come down to.
A full roof replacement in Southeast Michigan typically runs between $8,000 and $18,000 depending on the size of your home, the pitch of your roof, and the shingle quality you choose. That's a big number, and it's not one most homeowners have sitting in their savings account.
This is why insurance exists. If hail damaged your roof, your homeowner's policy should cover the replacement cost, minus your deductible. But here's where it gets tricky:
- Actual Cash Value vs. Replacement Cost: Some policies pay only the depreciated value of your roof upfront, then reimburse you for the rest after the work is completed. Make sure you understand which type of coverage you have.
- Claim deadlines: Most Michigan policies require you to file a claim within one year of the storm. Miss that window, and you're paying out of pocket.
- Matching requirements: If only part of your roof is damaged, some policies require the insurance company to pay for the entire roof if they can't match your existing shingles. This is common with discontinued shingle lines.
- Deductibles: Typical wind/hail deductibles in Michigan range from $500 to $2,500. Some policies use a percentage of your home's insured value (usually 1-2%), which can be significantly higher.
We work with homeowners and adjusters every week to navigate this process. Our role is to provide accurate documentation so you're not leaving money on the table, and to make sure the scope of work matches what the insurance company approved.
If you're also dealing with siding damage from the same storm, the claim can expand to cover multiple exterior systems. We've handled comprehensive claims where hail damaged the roof, siding, gutters, and even window screens and trim — all covered under one claim.
What About Homes We're Planning to Sell?
If you're preparing a home for sale in Bloomfield Hills, Lake Orion, or anywhere in Southeast Michigan, undisclosed hail damage is a problem waiting to happen.
Michigan law requires sellers to disclose known defects. If you're aware of a hailstorm and haven't had the roof inspected, a buyer's home inspector will almost certainly flag potential damage during their walkthrough. That either kills the deal or forces you to negotiate a price reduction or repair credit — often for more than it would have cost to address proactively.
We work with realtors regularly on pre-listing inspections and fast-turnaround repairs. If there's damage, we document it, handle the insurance claim, and complete the work before the listing goes live. If there's no damage, we provide a written inspection report that you can share with prospective buyers to demonstrate due diligence.
Other Services from NEXT Exteriors
While hail damage is our focus here, storm events rarely affect just one part of your home's exterior. We're a full-service contractor offering comprehensive exterior services in Detroit and throughout Southeast Michigan.
If you're dealing with storm damage, we can assess and repair:
- Siding: Hail can crack vinyl, dent aluminum, and chip fiber cement. We install siding built for Michigan's freeze-thaw cycles, including James Hardie fiber cement and LP SmartSide engineered wood.
- Windows: Impact damage to window frames, broken seals, and cracked glass are all common after severe storms. Our window replacement services focus on energy efficiency and durability.
- Insulation: If water intrusion from roof damage has compromised your attic insulation, we handle spray foam, blown-in, and batt insulation to restore your home's thermal envelope.
- Painting: Hail can chip exterior paint, especially on wood trim and fascia. We're exclusive partners with Sherwin-Williams for all our exterior painting work.
The advantage of working with a contractor who handles all these systems is coordination. One inspection, one insurance claim, one project timeline. We're not subcontracting out to three different companies who may or may not show up on time.
Ready to Get Started?
NEXT Exteriors has been protecting Michigan homes since 1988. Get a free, no-pressure storm damage inspection from a team that shows up on time and does the job right.
Get Your Free InspectionOr call us: (844) 770-6398
Frequently Asked Questions About Hail Damage
Most Michigan homeowner's insurance policies require you to file a claim within one year of the date of loss (the storm date). Some policies have shorter windows, so check your policy documents or call your insurance agent immediately after a hailstorm. Missing this deadline means you'll pay for repairs out of pocket, even if the damage is legitimate.
Yes. Most roof replacements in Southeast Michigan take 1-3 days depending on the size and complexity. You'll hear noise during the day, but your home remains weathertight and livable throughout the process. We protect landscaping, driveways, and entryways, and we do a thorough cleanup with magnetic sweepers to collect stray nails. Many homeowners go about their normal routines while we work.
Hail 1 inch in diameter (about the size of a quarter) can cause damage to asphalt shingles, especially if the shingles are older or already weathered. Hail 1.5 inches or larger (golf ball-sized) almost always causes damage. But even smaller hail can compromise shingles if the storm is severe, the hail is wind-driven, or your roof is already near the end of its service life. The only way to know for sure is a professional inspection.
It depends on your insurance company and your claims history. Hail damage is considered a weather event, not a negligence issue, so many insurers don't raise rates for a single claim. However, if you've filed multiple claims in recent years, it could affect your premiums or even your ability to renew with the same carrier. This is a question to ask your insurance agent directly — but don't let fear of rate increases stop you from filing a legitimate claim. That's what you pay premiums for.
It's not a bad idea to get a second opinion, especially if your insurance adjuster says there's no damage but you have visible signs like dented gutters or granule loss. Make sure the contractor you hire is licensed, insured, and has experience with storm damage claims. At NEXT Exteriors, we provide free inspections and detailed written reports with photos. We're not interested in creating damage that isn't there — we're interested in documenting what actually happened so you get fair treatment from your insurance company.
Storm chasers are a real problem in Michigan. After major hail events, out-of-state contractors flood the area, offer lowball estimates, do substandard work, and disappear before you can file a warranty claim. Protect yourself by verifying: (1) Michigan contractor's license, (2) liability and workers' comp insurance, (3) local business address, (4) BBB rating and online reviews, and (5) manufacturer certifications like CertainTeed Master Shingle Applicator. NEXT Exteriors has been in Mount Clemens since 1988, holds an A+ BBB rating since 2006, and we're not going anywhere.
Absolutely. This is the entire point of this article. Most hail damage is invisible from the ground and doesn't create immediate leaks. Instead, it compromises the shingle's waterproofing and accelerates aging. Granule loss exposes the asphalt mat to UV damage. Bruising creates soft spots where water can pool. Fractured fiberglass mats allow wind-driven rain to penetrate. You might not see a leak for 2-3 years, but by then the damage has spread to the underlayment and roof deck, turning a $12,000 roof replacement into a $20,000 project with structural repairs.
Storm-Damaged Gutters in Troy? Repair vs. Replace Guide
Troy homeowners: Learn when to repair vs. replace storm-damaged gutters. Expert advice from NEXT Exteriors on fixing Michigan weather damage the right way.
You wake up after a Michigan thunderstorm, look out the window, and notice your gutter hanging at an odd angle. Or maybe you're cleaning up branches after a windstorm and realize a section of your gutter system is dented, detached, or completely gone. It's a familiar scenario for Troy homeowners—Southeast Michigan's weather doesn't mess around.
The question isn't whether storm damage happens. It does. The real question is: do you repair what's broken, or is it time to replace the entire system? We've been installing and repairing seamless gutters in Detroit, MI and surrounding communities since 1988, and we've seen every kind of storm damage imaginable. Here's how to make the right call for your Troy home.
How Michigan Storms Damage Gutters
Troy sits in Oakland County, right in the path of lake-effect weather systems and summer storm fronts that roll across Southeast Michigan with surprising intensity. Your gutters take the brunt of it—and they're more vulnerable than most homeowners realize.
Wind Damage: The Most Common Culprit
Straight-line winds of 50-70 mph aren't unusual during Michigan thunderstorms. When wind hits your roofline, it creates uplift pressure on the gutters. If the hangers (the brackets securing gutters to your fascia board) are spaced too far apart or have weakened over time, sections can pull away or detach completely. We see this constantly in Troy's older neighborhoods where homes have original gutter systems from the 1980s and 1990s.
Wind also drives debris—branches, shingles, even patio furniture—into gutters with enough force to dent aluminum or knock sections out of alignment. Once a gutter is bent or misaligned, water doesn't flow properly, which creates a cascade of problems.
Hail Impact: Dents and Punctures
Michigan hailstorms can produce stones ranging from pea-sized to golf ball-sized. Anything over three-quarters of an inch can dent standard aluminum gutters. Larger hail can puncture them outright. If you're wondering what size hail damages your roof, the same thresholds apply to your gutters—and gutters are even more exposed.
Dents aren't just cosmetic. They disrupt water flow, creating low spots where water pools instead of draining. Over time, standing water leads to rust, leaks, and fascia rot.
Ice Dams and Winter Freeze-Thaw Cycles
Ice dams form when heat escaping through your roof melts snow, which then refreezes at the eaves. The ice buildup pushes under shingles and into gutters, expanding and contracting with temperature swings. This constant freeze-thaw cycle—Michigan's specialty—can warp gutters, pop hangers loose, and crack seams.
We've pulled gutters off Troy homes where the fascia board itself was rotted through from years of ice dam damage. At that point, you're not just replacing gutters—you're rebuilding the underlying structure. If your home struggles with ice dams, the root cause is often inadequate attic insulation in Metro Detroit, which allows heat to escape and melt snow unevenly.
Debris and Branch Strikes
Troy's mature tree canopy is beautiful—until a branch comes down in a storm. Even a small limb falling onto a gutter can bend it beyond repair. Larger branches can rip entire sections off the house or crush downspouts flat.
Clogged gutters full of leaves and debris also make the system heavier, stressing hangers and seams. When a storm hits, that extra weight becomes a liability.
Assessing Your Gutter Damage: What to Look For
After a storm, you need to know what you're dealing with before you can decide on repairs or replacement. Here's how to assess the damage safely and thoroughly.
Ground-Level Visual Inspection
Start by walking around your house and looking up. You don't need a ladder for this initial check. Look for:
- Sagging sections: Gutters should be level or have a slight slope toward downspouts. Visible sagging means hangers have failed or the gutter is full of water and debris.
- Detached segments: Gaps between the gutter and fascia board, or sections hanging loose.
- Visible dents or holes: Obvious impact damage from hail or debris.
- Downspout issues: Bent, disconnected, or crushed downspouts that aren't draining properly.
- Water stains or rot on fascia: Indicates long-term leakage and potential structural damage.
If you see any of these, you've got damage that needs professional attention. Don't ignore it—gutters protect your foundation, siding, and landscaping from water damage. A failed gutter system can lead to basement flooding, foundation cracks, and erosion around your home's perimeter.
Check for Functional Problems
Even if your gutters look intact, they might not be working properly. After the next rain, go outside and watch how water moves through the system. You're looking for:
- Overflowing gutters: Water spilling over the edges instead of flowing to downspouts.
- Pooling water: Standing water in sections of the gutter after rain stops.
- Leaks at seams or corners: Water dripping from joints or mitered corners.
- Poor drainage at downspouts: Water backing up or not exiting downspouts properly.
These functional failures often indicate damage you can't see from the ground—bent hangers, separated seams, or internal blockages.
Inspect the Fascia and Soffit
Your gutters attach to the fascia board—the vertical trim at the edge of your roofline. Storm damage to gutters often damages the fascia, too. Look for:
- Soft, spongy, or discolored wood (signs of rot)
- Fascia pulling away from the roofline
- Water stains or peeling paint
- Visible gaps between the fascia and the rest of the house
If your fascia is compromised, you'll need to address that before or during gutter replacement. Attaching new gutters to rotted wood is a recipe for failure. This is also a good time to consider whether your home's house siding in Detroit or surrounding areas has been affected by prolonged water exposure.
Document Everything with Photos
Before you call a contractor or your insurance company, take clear photos of all damage from multiple angles. Capture:
- Close-ups of dents, holes, or detached sections
- Wide shots showing the overall condition of each side of the house
- Any water damage to fascia, soffit, or siding
- Ground-level evidence like erosion, pooling water, or damaged landscaping
Good documentation speeds up insurance claims and helps contractors give you accurate estimates.
Safety Note: Don't climb on your roof or use a ladder to inspect gutters unless you're comfortable and experienced with ladder safety. Michigan weather makes rooflines slippery and dangerous. A licensed contractor has the equipment and training to inspect safely—and they'll spot problems you might miss.
Repair vs. Replace: The Decision Framework
Here's the framework we use when a Troy homeowner asks us whether to repair or replace damaged gutters. It's based on 35+ years of field experience and hundreds of gutter projects across Southeast Michigan.
When Repairs Make Sense
Gutter repairs are the right call when:
- The damage is localized: One or two sections are affected, but the rest of the system is in good shape.
- Your gutters are relatively new: If the system is less than 10 years old and was properly installed, repairs can extend its life significantly.
- The underlying structure is sound: Fascia boards are solid, hangers are secure, and there's no rot or structural damage.
- The damage is purely cosmetic: Minor dents that don't affect water flow can often be left alone or repaired inexpensively.
- You're on a tight budget: Repairs cost a fraction of replacement and can buy you time if you're not ready for a full investment.
Common repairable issues include replacing a few hangers, resealing a leaking seam, straightening a bent section, or reconnecting a downspout. A good contractor can handle these repairs quickly—often in a single visit.
When Replacement Is Necessary
Full gutter replacement is the better investment when:
- Damage is widespread: Multiple sections on multiple sides of the house are compromised.
- Your gutters are old: If the system is 15-20+ years old, repairs are a temporary fix. You'll likely face recurring problems.
- You have sectional gutters with multiple seams: Older sectional systems (10-foot sections joined together) are prone to leaks at seams. Seamless gutters eliminate most leak points.
- Fascia or structural damage exists: If the wood behind the gutters is rotted or damaged, you need to rebuild the attachment surface—and you might as well install new gutters at the same time.
- You're upgrading your home's exterior: If you're replacing your roof in Metro Detroit or updating siding, it's the perfect time to upgrade gutters, too. You'll save on labor costs by bundling projects.
- You want better performance: If your current system has always struggled with overflow, poor drainage, or ice dams, replacement with properly sized, seamless gutters solves those problems permanently.
Replacement also makes sense if you're planning to sell your home in the next few years. New gutters improve curb appeal and give buyers confidence that the home has been maintained.
The Cost-Benefit Calculation
Here's the reality: if repairs cost more than 30-40% of what full replacement would cost, replacement is almost always the smarter financial decision. You're not just paying for materials and labor—you're buying peace of mind, warranty coverage, and a system that will last another 20+ years.
For example, if repairing storm damage on three sides of your house costs $800, and full replacement costs $2,200, you're spending 36% of the replacement cost for a temporary fix. In that scenario, replacement is the better value.
What Professional Gutter Repair Involves
If you've decided repairs are the right move, here's what a professional gutter repair typically includes—and why DIY isn't always the best option.
Hanger Replacement and Reinforcement
Gutters attach to your fascia with hangers spaced every 24-36 inches. Storm damage often pulls hangers loose or bends them. A proper repair involves removing damaged hangers, inspecting the fascia for rot, and installing new hangers at the correct spacing. We use heavy-duty hidden hangers that distribute weight evenly and won't pull loose in future storms.
Seam and Joint Resealing
Sectional gutters have seams where sections connect. These seams are sealed with caulk or sealant, which degrades over time—especially after freeze-thaw cycles. Resealing involves cleaning the joint thoroughly, removing old sealant, and applying a high-quality gutter sealant rated for Michigan weather. It's a simple fix, but it has to be done right or the leak will return within a season.
Section Replacement
If a section of gutter is too damaged to repair—crushed by a branch, punctured by hail, or bent beyond straightening—we replace just that section. For seamless gutters, this means cutting a new piece on-site with our gutter machine and splicing it into the existing system. For sectional gutters, we remove the damaged section and install a new one, sealing the joints carefully.
Downspout Repair or Replacement
Downspouts take a beating in storms. Bent downspouts can often be straightened if the damage is minor. Crushed or punctured downspouts need replacement. We also check that downspouts are properly connected to underground drains or extensions that carry water at least 6 feet away from your foundation—a critical detail many homeowners overlook.
Minor Fascia Repair
If fascia damage is limited to a small area, we can sometimes sister in a new piece of trim board or apply epoxy filler to stabilize the wood before reattaching gutters. This is a short-term fix—if the fascia is extensively rotted, full replacement is the only long-term solution.
Why Hire a Pro? Gutter work looks simple, but it requires ladders, specialized tools, and an understanding of proper pitch and drainage. A poorly executed repair can make things worse—leaks, improper drainage, and even fascia damage. Licensed contractors like NEXT Exteriors carry liability insurance and workers' comp, so you're not on the hook if someone gets hurt on your property.
When Full Gutter Replacement Is the Right Call
If you've decided replacement is the way to go—or your contractor has recommended it—here's what you need to know about the process, materials, and benefits.
Seamless Gutters: The Modern Standard
We install seamless aluminum gutters on virtually every replacement project in Troy. Here's why:
- Fewer leak points: Seamless gutters are formed from a single continuous piece of aluminum, custom-cut to the exact length of each roofline. The only seams are at inside and outside corners—drastically reducing the chance of leaks.
- Better durability: Thicker-gauge aluminum (we use .032-inch) resists dents and holds up better in Michigan storms.
- Cleaner appearance: No visible seams every 10 feet. The result is a sleek, professional look that enhances curb appeal.
- Custom fit: We measure and cut gutters on-site using a portable gutter machine, ensuring a perfect fit for your home's unique roofline.
Seamless gutters cost slightly more than sectional systems upfront, but they last longer and require less maintenance—making them the better long-term investment for Troy homeowners.
Proper Sizing Matters
Most homes use 5-inch gutters, which handle typical Michigan rainfall just fine. But if your home has a large roof area, steep pitch, or you've experienced chronic overflow issues, 6-inch gutters might be the better choice. Larger gutters move more water faster, reducing the risk of overflow during heavy downpours.
We also calculate downspout placement based on roof area and drainage needs. The rule of thumb is one downspout for every 30-40 feet of gutter, but homes with complex rooflines or large valleys may need more. Proper downspout spacing prevents water backup and ensures the system drains efficiently.
Gutter Guards: Worth Considering?
If you're replacing gutters, it's worth discussing gutter guards. Troy's tree-lined streets mean leaves, pine needles, and debris are a constant issue. Quality gutter guards reduce maintenance and prevent clogs—but not all guards are created equal. We've written a detailed guide on the best gutter guards for Michigan's leaves and pine needles if you want to dive deeper.
Our take: guards are a smart investment if you have mature trees, but cheap mesh guards that sit on top of gutters often cause more problems than they solve. Professionally installed guards that integrate with the gutter system are the way to go.
Color and Aesthetic Choices
Aluminum gutters come in a wide range of colors. Most Troy homeowners choose white, almond, or a color that matches their trim or siding before summer. We can also match custom colors if you're coordinating with a specific exterior palette.
Downspouts can be round or rectangular. Rectangular downspouts (2x3 or 3x4 inches) are more common and handle water flow efficiently. Round downspouts are sometimes used for aesthetic reasons on historic or Colonial-style homes.
The Installation Process
A full gutter replacement on an average Troy home takes 1-2 days. Here's what the process looks like:
- Removal of old gutters: We carefully remove the existing system, inspecting fascia boards as we go.
- Fascia repair or replacement: Any rotted or damaged fascia gets repaired or replaced before new gutters go up.
- Gutter fabrication: We measure each roofline and cut seamless gutters on-site using our portable gutter machine.
- Installation: Gutters are hung with heavy-duty hidden hangers at proper spacing (every 24 inches). We ensure correct pitch toward downspouts—typically a quarter-inch drop per 10 feet.
- Downspout installation: Downspouts are attached securely and connected to extensions or underground drains.
- Final inspection and cleanup: We test the system with water to ensure proper flow and drainage, then clean up all debris.
We coordinate gutter replacement with other exterior projects when possible. If you're also upgrading windows in Detroit or planning exterior painting in Southeast Michigan, bundling projects saves time and money.
The Cost Reality: Repair vs. Replace in Troy
Let's talk numbers. Michigan homeowners are practical—you want to know what you're getting into financially before you commit.
Gutter Repair Costs
Typical gutter repairs in Troy run:
- Hanger replacement: $150-$400, depending on how many hangers need replacing and whether fascia repair is required.
- Seam resealing: $100-$250 for a few problem seams.
- Section replacement: $200-$500 per section, depending on length and accessibility.
- Downspout repair or replacement: $75-$200 per downspout.
- Minor fascia repair: $150-$400, depending on the extent of damage.
Total repair costs for storm damage typically range from $300 to $1,200, depending on the severity and scope of the damage. If you're approaching $1,000+ in repairs on an older system, replacement starts to make more financial sense.
Gutter Replacement Costs
Full gutter replacement with seamless aluminum gutters typically costs:
- Average Troy home (1,500-2,000 sq ft): $1,800-$3,200
- Larger homes (2,500-3,500 sq ft): $3,200-$5,000
- Complex rooflines or two-story homes: $4,000-$6,500+
These prices include removal of old gutters, fascia inspection and minor repairs, seamless gutter installation, downspouts, and cleanup. If extensive fascia replacement is needed, add $500-$1,500 depending on the amount of work.
Gutter guards add $8-$15 per linear foot, depending on the type. For a typical Troy home, that's an additional $1,200-$2,400.
We've written a comprehensive breakdown of siding replacement costs in Michigan if you're curious about how gutter costs compare to other exterior projects—gutters are typically one of the more affordable upgrades with a high return on investment.
Insurance Coverage for Storm Damage
Homeowners insurance often covers gutter damage caused by storms, falling trees, or hail—but coverage varies by policy. Here's what you need to know:
- File a claim promptly: Most policies require you to report damage within a certain timeframe (often 30-60 days).
- Document everything: Photos, contractor estimates, and a written description of the damage strengthen your claim.
- Understand your deductible: If repairs cost less than your deductible (often $500-$1,000), insurance won't cover it.
- Get a professional assessment: Insurance adjusters sometimes underestimate damage. A contractor's detailed estimate can help you get fair compensation.
We work with insurance claims regularly and can provide detailed documentation to support your case. We don't inflate estimates—we give you an honest assessment of what needs to be done and what it will cost.
ROI and Home Value Impact
New gutters don't have the flashy ROI of a kitchen remodel, but they're a critical maintenance item that protects your home's structure and foundation. Buyers notice gutters—sagging, rusty, or damaged gutters are a red flag that the home hasn't been maintained.
Replacing gutters before selling your Troy home improves curb appeal and removes a potential objection during inspections. It's a relatively small investment (compared to roofing or siding) that signals to buyers that the home is move-in ready.
Ready to Fix Your Storm-Damaged Gutters?
NEXT Exteriors has been protecting Southeast Michigan homes since 1988. Whether you need a quick repair or a full seamless gutter replacement, we'll give you an honest assessment and a fair price—no pressure, no gimmicks. We're BBB A+ rated with a 5.0-star average across 87+ reviews.
Get Your Free QuoteOr call us directly: (844) 770-6398
Frequently Asked Questions
Properly installed seamless aluminum gutters typically last 20-25 years in Michigan's climate. Factors that affect lifespan include gutter thickness (.032-inch is standard), quality of installation, regular maintenance, and exposure to extreme weather. Homes with gutter guards and minimal tree overhang often see gutters last 25-30 years. Copper gutters can last 50+ years but cost significantly more upfront.
Simple repairs like resealing a small leak or reattaching a downspout can be DIY-friendly if you're comfortable on a ladder. But most storm damage—bent sections, failed hangers, fascia issues—requires professional tools, materials, and expertise. Improper repairs often make things worse and can void warranties. More importantly, gutter work involves ladders and rooflines, which are dangerous. Licensed contractors have insurance and safety equipment—if you fall off your own ladder, you're on your own for medical bills.
Homeowners insurance typically covers gutter damage caused by sudden events like storms, falling trees, or hail. Damage from neglect, age, or lack of maintenance usually isn't covered. Your deductible applies—if repairs cost less than your deductible (often $500-$1,000), you'll pay out of pocket. File claims promptly, document damage thoroughly, and get a professional contractor estimate to support your claim. We work with insurance adjusters regularly and can help you navigate the process.
Sectional gutters come in pre-cut lengths (usually 10 feet) that are joined together with connectors and sealed at the seams. These seams are prone to leaks over time, especially after Michigan's freeze-thaw cycles. Seamless gutters are custom-fabricated on-site from a single continuous piece of aluminum, so there are no seams except at corners. Seamless gutters leak less, last longer, and look cleaner. They cost slightly more upfront but save money long-term through reduced maintenance and longer lifespan.
Look for soft, spongy wood, visible rot, water stains, peeling paint, or fascia pulling away from the roofline. If you can push a screwdriver into the fascia easily, it's rotted and needs replacement. A contractor will inspect the fascia when they assess gutter damage—attaching new gutters to rotted fascia is a waste of money because the gutters will pull loose within a year or two. Fascia replacement is common on homes with older gutter systems that have been leaking for years.
Yes—bundling gutter replacement with a roof replacement makes sense for several reasons. First, roofers often remove gutters temporarily to install drip edge and flashing properly, so you're already paying for some gutter work. Second, new roofing and new gutters together give you a complete, coordinated system with matching warranties. Third, you save on labor costs by having both projects done at once. If your gutters are more than 15 years old and you're getting a new roof, replace them at the same time. You can learn more about how long roofs last in Michigan to help with your planning.
Quality gutter guards work well in Michigan—but cheap mesh guards that sit on top of gutters often cause more problems than they solve. The best guards are professionally installed systems that integrate with the gutter and keep out leaves, pine needles, and debris while allowing water to flow freely. Guards reduce maintenance significantly, but they're not 100% maintenance-free—you'll still need to check them annually and clear any buildup. We cover this topic in depth in our guide to gutter guards for Michigan's leaves and pine needles.
NEXT Exteriors serves Troy, Rochester Hills, Birmingham, Bloomfield Hills, Royal Oak, Sterling Heights, and all of Oakland County with honest, high-quality exterior services in Detroit and Southeast Michigan. We're a Michigan-licensed contractor (Premier Builder Inc.) with an A+ BBB rating and 35+ years of experience. When you call us, you get straight answers, fair pricing, and crews that show up on time and do the work right. That's the NEXT Exteriors difference.
What Size Hail Damages Your Roof? Penny to Golf Ball Guide
Learn what size hail actually damages roofs in Michigan. From penny-sized to golf ball hail, a licensed contractor explains impact thresholds and when to file claims.
You're standing in your driveway in Sterling Heights after a summer thunderstorm just rolled through. The sky's clearing, but your lawn is covered in ice chunks. Some look like marbles. Others are closer to golf balls. Your neighbor across the street is already on the phone with their insurance company.
The question running through your head: Did this hail actually damage my roof?
After 35 years of Detroit roofing services, we've inspected hundreds of roofs after hail events across Macomb, Oakland, and St. Clair counties. Here's what most homeowners don't understand: hail size matters, but it's not the only factor. The age of your roof, the type of shingles, the angle of impact, and even the temperature when the hail hit all determine whether you're looking at cosmetic dings or functional damage that warrants an insurance claim.
This isn't about scaring you into a new roof. It's about giving you the information to make an informed decision — whether that's filing a claim, scheduling a professional inspection, or simply keeping an eye on things for now.
How Hail Damage Actually Works
Hail doesn't damage roofs the way most people think. It's not just about size — it's about impact energy, which is a function of mass, velocity, and the material it's hitting.
When a hailstone falls from a thunderstorm, it accelerates until it reaches terminal velocity — the speed at which air resistance equals gravitational pull. For a golf ball-sized hailstone (1.75 inches), that's roughly 50-60 mph. Smaller hail falls slower. Larger hail can exceed 100 mph.
When that ice chunk hits your roof, several things happen:
- Granule displacement: The protective ceramic granules embedded in asphalt shingles get knocked loose, exposing the underlying asphalt mat to UV rays and moisture.
- Mat bruising: The fiberglass or organic mat inside the shingle gets compressed or fractured, weakening the shingle's structural integrity.
- Adhesive failure: The sealant strips that bond shingle layers together can separate from impact shock, making shingles more vulnerable to wind uplift.
- Substrate damage: In severe cases, hail can crack or puncture the shingle entirely, allowing water intrusion into the roof deck.
The severity of this damage depends on multiple variables:
Shingle type matters. Three-tab shingles — the flat, uniform shingles common on older Michigan homes — are more vulnerable than architectural (dimensional) shingles. Architectural shingles from manufacturers like CertainTeed, GAF, and Owens Corning have multiple layers and better impact resistance. Some premium lines even carry a Class 4 impact rating, the highest standard available.
Age matters even more. A 5-year-old roof can withstand hail that would destroy a 20-year-old roof. As shingles age, the asphalt becomes brittle, granules wear away naturally, and the mat loses flexibility. An older roof hit by quarter-sized hail might sustain functional damage, while a newer roof with the same hail shows only minor cosmetic marks.
Temperature at impact matters. Hail hitting a roof on a hot summer day (when shingles are pliable) causes different damage than hail hitting on a cool spring evening (when shingles are more rigid). Warmer shingles tend to show bruising; colder shingles are more likely to crack.
Angle of impact matters. Hail driven by wind hits at an angle, concentrating force on one side of the roof. That's why you'll often see damage patterns clustered on south or west-facing slopes after a storm with strong winds.
This is why a professional roof inspection after a hail storm is critical. What looks fine from the ground might show significant granule loss or mat bruising when examined up close.
Hail Size Chart: What Actually Causes Damage
Insurance adjusters and roofing contractors use a standardized hail size chart based on common objects. Here's what each size means for your roof:
| Hail Size | Diameter | Damage Potential | What to Expect |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pea | 1/4 inch | Minimal | Rarely damages asphalt shingles. May ding metal vents or gutters. No insurance claim needed unless roof is very old. |
| Marble / Dime | 1/2 - 3/4 inch | Cosmetic | Can cause minor granule loss on older roofs. Visible dents on metal components. Typically not enough for a claim unless combined with wind damage. |
| Penny / Nickel | 3/4 - 7/8 inch | Moderate | Threshold for potential functional damage on roofs 10+ years old. Noticeable granule loss. Bruising may be visible. Worth getting an inspection. |
| Quarter | 1 inch | Significant | This is the functional damage threshold for most asphalt shingle roofs. Expect granule loss, mat bruising, and possible cracking. Insurance claim likely justified. |
| Half Dollar | 1.25 inches | Severe | Will damage most roofs regardless of age. Expect widespread bruising, cracking, and possible punctures. Definitely file a claim. |
| Golf Ball | 1.75 inches | Severe | Causes obvious damage to shingles, gutters, siding, and windows. Immediate inspection recommended. Insurance claim almost certain. |
| Tennis Ball | 2.5 inches | Catastrophic | Rare but devastating. Punctures shingles, cracks roof decking, shatters skylights. Full roof replacement often necessary. |
| Baseball | 2.75 inches | Catastrophic | Extreme damage to all exterior surfaces. Immediate tarp and emergency repair needed. Full insurance claim with possible structural damage. |
The Quarter-Sized Rule: In the roofing industry, 1-inch (quarter-sized) hail is generally considered the threshold for functional damage on standard asphalt shingle roofs. Below that size, damage is often cosmetic unless the roof is already compromised by age or prior damage. Above that size, you're looking at legitimate structural concerns that insurance companies typically recognize.
Keep in mind that these are general guidelines. A newer Class 4 impact-resistant roof might withstand golf ball hail with minimal damage, while an aging three-tab roof could fail with penny-sized hail under the right conditions.
This is one reason we recommend working with a CertainTeed Master Shingle Applicator when it's time for a replacement. Premium shingles with higher impact ratings provide better protection against future hail events — something Michigan homeowners should seriously consider given our storm patterns.
What Hail Damage Looks Like on Different Roofing Materials
Not all roofing materials respond to hail the same way. Here's what to look for based on what's on your roof:
Asphalt Shingles (Most Common in Southeast Michigan)
Asphalt shingles — whether three-tab or architectural — show hail damage in predictable ways:
- Granule loss: Dark circular spots where the protective granules have been knocked off, exposing the black asphalt underneath. This is the most common and most serious form of damage because it accelerates weathering and UV degradation.
- Bruising: Soft spots or divots in the shingle surface where the underlying mat has been compressed. These may not be visible from the ground but are obvious during a close inspection.
- Cracking: Splits or fractures in the shingle, often radiating from the impact point. This allows water to penetrate the roof deck.
- Shingle tears: In severe cases, hail combined with wind can tear shingles partially or completely off the roof.
On architectural shingles, damage is often less visible because the multi-layer design provides some cushioning. But that doesn't mean the damage isn't there — it just requires a trained eye to spot.
Metal Roofing
Metal roofs are more hail-resistant than asphalt, but they're not immune. Hail damage on metal shows up as:
- Denting: Visible dimples or depressions in the metal panels. Small dents (from pea to dime-sized hail) are usually cosmetic. Larger dents can compromise the panel's water-shedding ability.
- Paint chipping: Impact points where the protective coating has flaked off, exposing bare metal to rust.
- Seam damage: Hail can loosen or damage the interlocking seams between panels, creating potential leak points.
Metal roofing's advantage is durability — even with cosmetic dents, a metal roof typically continues to perform well. But if you're considering a metal roof as part of your exterior services in Detroit, know that it won't eliminate hail damage entirely.
Cedar Shake and Wood Shingles
Wood roofing is particularly vulnerable to hail:
- Splits and fractures: Hail can crack or split wood shakes, especially if the wood has aged and lost moisture.
- Splintering: Impact points may show jagged, splintered wood fibers.
- Dislodged shakes: Severe hail can knock individual shakes loose or break them entirely.
Wood roofs are rare in new construction but still common in historic neighborhoods around Grosse Pointe and Birmingham. If you have a wood roof and experience significant hail, inspection is critical.
Flat and Low-Slope Roofing
Commercial-style flat roofs (TPO, EPDM, modified bitumen) respond differently:
- Punctures: Large hail can puncture single-ply membranes, creating immediate leak points.
- Bruising: Impact points may show as soft spots or depressions in the membrane.
- Seam separation: The force of hail impact can stress seams and cause adhesive failure.
Flat roofs are less common on residential homes in Michigan, but if you have one (often over porches or additions), they're more vulnerable to hail penetration than sloped roofs.
Michigan Hail Patterns: What We See in Southeast Michigan
Michigan isn't Kansas or Oklahoma — we don't see the same frequency of large hail that Tornado Alley does. But we get enough to matter, especially in late spring and summer when warm, humid air collides with cold fronts moving across the Great Lakes.
Here's what 35 years of working in Macomb, Oakland, and St. Clair counties has taught us about Michigan hail:
Peak Hail Season: May Through August
Most significant hail events in Southeast Michigan happen between May and August. Spring and early summer bring the atmospheric instability needed for severe thunderstorms — warm surface temperatures, moisture from Lake Huron and Lake St. Clair, and jet stream dynamics that favor supercell development.
July and August storms tend to be the most intense, with the highest probability of quarter-sized or larger hail. These are the storms that light up social media with photos of ice chunks covering lawns in Rochester Hills or Shelby Township.
Geographic Patterns
Hail doesn't fall evenly across the region. Storm tracks and local topography create patterns:
- Oakland County (especially the western and northern portions) sees slightly more severe weather than Macomb County, likely due to its position relative to typical storm tracks moving northeast from lower Michigan.
- St. Clair County can get hammered when storms move across Lake Huron and intensify over the warmer land surface.
- Macomb County sees frequent storms but slightly smaller average hail sizes compared to areas farther west.
That said, every part of Southeast Michigan has experienced damaging hail in the past decade. If you live here, it's not a question of if you'll see hail — it's when.
Recent Examples
In the summer of 2023, a severe thunderstorm complex moved through northern Oakland County, dropping golf ball-sized hail in Lake Orion and Clarkston. We inspected over 40 roofs in the weeks following that storm, and nearly 70% showed functional damage requiring insurance claims.
In 2021, a line of storms produced widespread quarter to half-dollar-sized hail across Warren and Sterling Heights, leading to one of the busiest claim seasons we've seen in years.
These aren't once-in-a-lifetime events. They happen every few years, and if you own a home in Southeast Michigan for 20-30 years, you'll almost certainly deal with hail damage at some point.
That's why understanding what to do in the first 24 hours after a storm can save you time, money, and frustration when the inevitable happens.
Signs You Need a Professional Roof Inspection After Hail
You don't need to climb on your roof to know if hail caused damage. Here are the signs visible from the ground or a ladder that indicate it's time to call a licensed contractor:
1. Granules in the Gutters
After a hail storm, check your gutters and downspouts. If you see heavy accumulation of shingle granules (they look like coarse sand, often dark gray or black), that's a red flag. Some granule loss is normal over time, but a sudden surge after a storm indicates impact damage.
If your seamless gutters in Detroit, MI are clogged with granules, your shingles have taken a beating.
2. Dented or Damaged Metal Components
Hail that's large enough to damage shingles will definitely damage metal. Look at:
- Roof vents (the metal caps sticking up through the roof)
- Drip edge and flashing
- Gutters and downspouts
- Metal chimney caps
- Satellite dishes or HVAC units on the roof
If these components show obvious denting, your shingles likely have damage too — even if you can't see it from the ground.
3. Shingle Bruising or Dark Spots
From a ladder or binoculars, look for circular dark spots on the shingles where granules have been knocked off. These "bruises" expose the black asphalt mat underneath and are a clear sign of hail impact.
Bruising is most visible on lighter-colored shingles. Darker shingles may hide the damage, which is why a professional inspection is important.
4. Cracked, Torn, or Missing Shingles
Severe hail combined with wind can crack shingles or tear them completely off. If you see gaps in your roof field, loose shingles hanging, or pieces of shingles in your yard, that's obvious damage requiring immediate attention.
5. Your Neighbors Are Getting New Roofs
This one sounds silly, but it's legitimate. Hail damage is hyperlocal — a storm might drop golf ball hail on one street and pea-sized hail two blocks away. If multiple neighbors on your street are filing insurance claims and getting roof replacements, there's a good chance your roof sustained similar damage.
Don't assume your roof is fine just because you didn't hear the hail. Damage isn't always audible, especially if you were away from home or the storm hit at night.
6. Water Stains or Leaks Inside Your Home
This is the worst-case scenario. If you notice water stains on ceilings or walls after a hail storm, the damage has progressed beyond the shingles and into the roof deck or attic. This requires immediate professional attention.
Even if you don't see leaks, it's worth checking your attic after a major storm. Bring a flashlight and look for wet insulation, water stains on the underside of the roof deck, or daylight visible through the sheathing.
When in Doubt, Get an Inspection: A professional roof inspection from a licensed contractor costs nothing (we offer free inspections at NEXT Exteriors) and can save you thousands by catching damage early. Waiting months or years to address hail damage allows water intrusion, which leads to rot, mold, and structural issues that insurance won't cover.
If you're unsure whether your roof needs attention, our team can provide a thorough assessment and documentation for insurance purposes. We're not here to sell you a roof you don't need — we're here to give you honest information so you can make the right call.
Insurance Claims: When Hail Damage Qualifies
Not all hail damage qualifies for an insurance claim. Understanding the difference between cosmetic damage and functional damage is critical — because that's the standard insurance adjusters use.
Cosmetic vs. Functional Damage
Cosmetic damage affects the appearance of your roof but doesn't compromise its ability to shed water or protect your home. Minor granule loss, small dings on metal vents, or light bruising that hasn't exposed the shingle mat typically falls into this category. Insurance companies generally won't cover cosmetic damage unless your policy specifically includes cosmetic coverage (which is rare and expensive).
Functional damage compromises the roof's performance. This includes:
- Significant granule loss that exposes large areas of the asphalt mat
- Cracked or fractured shingles
- Bruising severe enough to weaken the shingle structure
- Shingles torn or displaced by hail and wind
- Damage to flashing, valleys, or other critical components
If an adjuster determines your roof has functional damage, your claim will likely be approved. If the damage is deemed cosmetic, you'll probably be denied unless you can document that the damage is widespread and accelerating the roof's deterioration.
How the Claims Process Works
Here's the typical timeline for a hail damage claim in Michigan:
- Document the damage: Take photos of hail on the ground (with a ruler or coin for size reference), damaged gutters, dented vents, and any visible shingle damage. Note the date and time of the storm.
- Contact your insurance company: Report the claim as soon as possible. Most policies require prompt notification, and waiting too long can complicate the process.
- Schedule a contractor inspection: Before the adjuster arrives, have a licensed roofing contractor inspect your roof and document the damage. This gives you leverage if the adjuster's assessment is incomplete or inaccurate.
- Meet with the adjuster: The insurance adjuster will inspect your roof and determine whether the damage qualifies for coverage. Having your contractor present during this inspection is often beneficial.
- Receive the estimate: If the claim is approved, the adjuster will provide an estimate for repairs or replacement. This estimate may be lower than what contractors quote — that's normal, and your contractor can work with the insurance company to reconcile differences.
- Pay your deductible: You'll be responsible for your deductible (typically $500-$2,500). The insurance company covers the rest.
- Schedule the work: Once the claim is approved and funds are released, your contractor can schedule the roof replacement.
What NEXT Exteriors Provides During Inspections
When we inspect a roof after a hail storm, we provide:
- A detailed written report documenting all damage, including photos with measurements
- An assessment of whether the damage meets the functional threshold for an insurance claim
- Assistance coordinating with your insurance adjuster, including being present during their inspection if needed
- A detailed estimate that aligns with insurance industry standards
- Guidance on whether filing a claim makes sense based on your deductible and the extent of damage
We've worked with every major insurance carrier operating in Michigan, and we understand their processes, standards, and expectations. Our goal is to make the claims process as smooth as possible while ensuring you get the coverage you're entitled to.
Timeline for Filing
Michigan law doesn't impose a specific deadline for filing property damage claims, but your insurance policy does. Most policies require you to report damage "promptly" or within a specific timeframe (often 60 days to one year). Check your policy documents or call your agent to confirm.
That said, don't wait. The longer you delay, the harder it becomes to prove the damage was caused by a specific storm event. Plus, unaddressed hail damage allows water intrusion, which can lead to secondary damage that insurance won't cover.
Cost Reality: Hail Damage Roof Replacement in Metro Detroit
If your roof sustains functional hail damage and your insurance claim is approved, here's what to expect financially:
Insurance Deductible
Your deductible is the amount you pay out of pocket before insurance coverage kicks in. In Michigan, typical homeowner's insurance deductibles for roof claims range from $500 to $2,500, with $1,000 being most common.
If your roof replacement costs $12,000 and your deductible is $1,000, you pay $1,000 and insurance covers the remaining $11,000 (minus depreciation if your policy includes it).
Full Replacement vs. Partial Repair
Insurance companies prefer to replace the entire roof rather than patch sections. Hail damage is rarely isolated to one area — if the storm dropped quarter-sized hail, it likely damaged the entire roof surface. Attempting to match old shingles with new ones is difficult (color fading makes matching nearly impossible), and partial repairs often void manufacturer warranties.
In most cases, if the damage is widespread, you're looking at a full roof replacement, not a repair.
Typical Costs for Southeast Michigan Homes
Roof replacement costs vary based on size, pitch, complexity, and material choice. Here are rough estimates for a typical 2,000-square-foot home in Metro Detroit:
- Standard architectural shingles (CertainTeed Landmark, GAF Timberline HDZ): $8,000 - $12,000
- Premium impact-resistant shingles (CertainTeed Northgate, GAF Timberline HDZ RS): $10,000 - $15,000
- Designer shingles (CertainTeed Grand Manor, Owens Corning Duration Designer): $12,000 - $18,000
These estimates include tear-off, disposal, new shingles, underlayment, drip edge, ridge vent, and labor. Costs increase for steeper roofs, multiple stories, or homes with complex layouts (dormers, valleys, skylights).
For a detailed breakdown of what drives these costs, check out our guide on siding replacement cost in Michigan — many of the same factors (material choice, labor, disposal, permits) apply to roofing.
Upgrade Opportunities During Insurance Replacements
If insurance is covering your roof replacement, this is an ideal time to consider upgrades that improve long-term performance:
- Impact-resistant shingles: Class 4 shingles cost 10-20% more than standard shingles but provide better hail protection. Some insurance companies offer premium discounts for impact-resistant roofs — check with your agent.
- Improved ventilation: Adding ridge vents or upgrading attic ventilation during a roof replacement improves energy efficiency and extends shingle life. This is especially important in Michigan, where proper attic insulation and ventilation prevent ice dams in winter.
- Upgraded underlayment: Synthetic underlayment (vs. traditional felt paper) provides better water resistance and longer-lasting protection.
- Gutter replacement: If your gutters were damaged by hail or are old and failing, replacing them during the roof project makes logistical sense.
Insurance typically covers "like-for-like" replacement, meaning they'll pay for shingles comparable to what you had. If you want to upgrade to a premium product, you'll pay the difference out of pocket. But that difference is often smaller than you'd expect — and the long-term benefits (better durability, improved curb appeal, potential insurance discounts) can justify the cost.
What About Siding, Windows, and Gutters?
Severe hail storms don't just damage roofs. Golf ball or larger hail can dent house siding in Detroit, crack windows in Detroit, and destroy gutters.
If you're filing a roof claim, have your contractor inspect all exterior surfaces. A comprehensive claim that includes siding, windows, and gutters ensures you're fully covered for storm damage. We've seen homeowners file roof-only claims, only to discover months later that their siding sustained hidden damage that's now their responsibility.
When we inspect for hail damage, we check everything — roof, siding, gutters, windows, doors, even exterior trim. It's part of our commitment to thorough, honest service.
Ready to Get Started?
NEXT Exteriors has been protecting Michigan homes since 1988. Whether you need a post-storm inspection, help with an insurance claim, or a full roof replacement, our team shows up on time and does the job right. No pressure, no gimmicks — just honest work and fair pricing.
Get Your Free QuoteOr call us: (844) 770-6398
Frequently Asked Questions
Did High Winds Damage Your Port Huron Siding? What Our Inspectors Look For
Learn what NEXT Exteriors inspectors check after Port Huron windstorms. From loose panels to hidden moisture damage, here's how to spot siding problems fast.
Port Huron sits right on Lake Huron, and if you've lived here for more than one winter, you know what that means: wind. Not the gentle breeze kind — the sustained 40 mph gusts that rattle windows, tear shingles loose, and turn patio furniture into projectiles. When those storms roll through, your siding takes a beating. And here's the problem: most homeowners don't notice the damage until it's already causing bigger issues inside the walls.
I've been inspecting homes across St. Clair County with NEXT Exteriors for years, and after every major wind event, we get calls from homeowners who thought their siding looked "fine" — until they spotted water stains on an interior wall or found a panel hanging loose three weeks later. Wind damage is sneaky. A panel that looks secure from the ground might be compromised at the fastener line. A small crack you can't see from your driveway becomes a moisture highway once the next rain hits.
This guide walks through exactly what our inspectors check after high winds blow through Port Huron, Marysville, St. Clair, and surrounding areas. Whether you're dealing with vinyl siding on a 1970s ranch or fiber cement on a newer build, you'll know what to look for — and when to call in a professional siding contractor before minor damage turns expensive.
Why Port Huron Siding Takes a Beating From Wind
Port Huron's location on Lake Huron isn't just a selling point for summer weekends — it's a structural challenge for your home's exterior. When weather systems move across the Great Lakes, they pick up speed and moisture. By the time they hit the eastern shore, you're dealing with sustained winds that regularly exceed 35 mph, with gusts pushing 50-60 mph during severe storms.
The National Weather Service data for the Port Huron area shows that wind events strong enough to cause structural damage happen multiple times per year, particularly during spring and fall transitions. These aren't tornado-level winds — they're the kind of persistent, directional gusts that find every weakness in your siding installation.
Here's what makes it worse: most homes in St. Clair County were sided between the 1960s and early 2000s, before modern wind-resistant installation practices became standard. If your home still has its original siding from that era, there's a good chance it was installed with minimal attention to wind load requirements. Panels might be face-nailed instead of properly fastened to studs. J-channels around windows might lack adequate backing. Starter strips at the foundation might be undersized or missing entirely.
The Lake Effect Factor: Homes on the eastern and northern exposures take the most direct hit from prevailing westerly winds coming off Lake Huron. If your home faces the water or sits on elevated terrain, your siding experiences significantly higher wind pressure than homes tucked into neighborhoods or protected by mature trees.
Older vinyl siding becomes more brittle over time, especially after 20+ Michigan winters of freeze-thaw cycling. What might have held up fine against a 40 mph gust when it was new can crack or pull loose when subjected to the same force two decades later. Fiber cement siding is more durable, but improper installation — particularly around fastener spacing and flashing details — leaves it vulnerable to wind uplift and water intrusion.
If you're in Port Huron, Marysville, or St. Clair and your siding is more than 15 years old, post-storm inspection isn't optional. It's maintenance. The question isn't whether wind has affected your siding — it's how much damage has accumulated and whether you're catching it before it compromises your wall assembly.
The 8-Point Wind Damage Inspection We Run
When a homeowner calls NEXT Exteriors after a windstorm, we don't just walk around the house and eyeball the siding. Wind damage assessment requires a systematic approach because the most serious problems are often invisible from ground level or hidden behind seemingly intact panels.
Here's our standard protocol for wind damage inspection on Port Huron area homes:
1. Ground-Level Perimeter Survey
We start by walking the entire perimeter of your home at ground level, looking for obvious damage: missing panels, visible cracks, displaced trim, or areas where siding has pulled away from the wall. This gives us a baseline and helps identify which elevations need closer scrutiny.
2. Elevated Inspection of All Four Walls
Using ladders and, when necessary, lifts, we inspect every wall section from multiple angles. Wind damage often occurs at the upper portions of walls where wind pressure is highest. We're looking for subtle indicators: panels that aren't sitting flush, slight separations at seams, or areas where the siding profile looks distorted.
3. Fastener Line Examination
We check the fastener lines on every accessible panel. Wind uplift typically starts at the fastener — either the nail pulls through the panel, the nailing flange tears, or the fastener backs out of the substrate. Even if the panel looks intact, a compromised fastener line means it's one storm away from complete failure.
4. Seam and Joint Integrity Check
Every place where siding panels meet — horizontal seams, vertical butt joints, inside and outside corners — gets individual attention. These are the weak points in any siding system, and wind exploits them first. We're looking for gaps, separation, or evidence that panels have shifted.
5. Window and Door Perimeter Assessment
The areas around windows and doors are particularly vulnerable because they interrupt the continuous siding plane. We inspect all J-channels, trim pieces, and flashing details. Wind-driven rain that penetrates here causes interior damage fast, and homeowners rarely notice until they see staining on drywall.
6. Soffit, Fascia, and Trim Inspection
Soffit panels, fascia boards, and trim components often sustain wind damage that homeowners miss entirely. We check for loose or missing soffit panels, damaged fascia, and trim pieces that have separated from the wall. These components are critical to your gutter system's integrity and overall weather protection.
7. Moisture Intrusion Indicators
We look for signs that water has penetrated behind the siding: staining, discoloration, warping, mold growth, or efflorescence on foundation walls. If wind has compromised your siding's weather barrier, moisture intrusion might already be underway even if the damage isn't visible from outside.
8. Documentation and Damage Mapping
Every issue we find gets photographed and documented with specific location notes. If you're filing an insurance claim, this documentation is essential. We create a damage map showing exactly which areas need repair or replacement, along with recommendations for addressing underlying installation deficiencies that contributed to the failure.
This process typically takes 45 minutes to an hour for an average-sized home, longer if we find significant damage that requires detailed assessment. DIY inspections miss most of this because homeowners don't have the equipment, experience, or systematic approach to catch problems before they escalate.
Loose, Lifted, or Missing Panels
The most obvious wind damage is also the most urgent: siding panels that have come loose, lifted away from the wall, or gone missing entirely. When you see this, you're looking at a compromised weather barrier and an immediate risk of water intrusion into your wall cavity.
Here's how it happens: wind doesn't just push against your siding — it creates suction on the leeward side of your home. When wind hits the windward wall, it flows around the corners and up over the roof, creating negative pressure that literally pulls siding panels away from the building. If the fasteners are inadequate, corroded, or improperly placed, the panel lifts. Once one panel starts to move, it puts stress on adjacent panels, creating a cascading failure.
Vinyl siding is particularly vulnerable because it's designed to "float" — the panels aren't rigidly attached, which allows for thermal expansion and contraction. But that same flexibility means a panel with compromised fasteners can be pulled completely free by sustained wind. We see this most often on gable ends, where wind pressure is highest, and on homes where the original installation used staples instead of nails, or where fasteners were driven too tight, restricting the panel's movement.
The Domino Effect: One loose panel is never just one problem. Once wind gets behind a single panel, it creates a pocket where pressure builds. That pressure pushes on adjacent panels, accelerating their failure. A small section of loose siding discovered after a storm can turn into a large-scale replacement project if left unaddressed through another wind event.
Fiber cement siding like James Hardie handles wind differently. It's more rigid and heavier, so it doesn't lift as easily. But when it does fail, it's usually catastrophic — the panel cracks at the fastener line or breaks completely. We see this on homes where the installer didn't follow manufacturer specifications for fastener type, spacing, or substrate backing. James Hardie requires specific installation techniques for wind-resistant performance, and shortcuts taken during installation show up years later when storms test the system.
If you spot loose or missing siding after a Port Huron windstorm, don't wait to address it. Every rain event that follows puts water into your wall cavity, where it damages sheathing, insulation, and framing. What starts as a $500 siding repair becomes a $5,000 wall reconstruction project if moisture sits long enough to rot structural components. This is exactly the kind of issue our team handles through exterior siding repair services across Metro Detroit and St. Clair County.
Cracked, Split, or Punctured Siding
Wind doesn't just pull siding loose — it turns everyday objects into projectiles. After a severe windstorm in Port Huron, we routinely find siding damage caused by branches, roof shingles, patio furniture, trash cans, and debris from neighboring properties. A 40 mph gust can turn a lawn chair into a battering ram.
Impact damage shows up as cracks, splits, punctures, or dents depending on the siding material and the force of impact. Vinyl siding cracks cleanly when struck, especially in cold weather when the material is more brittle. Fiber cement siding is more impact-resistant but can chip, crack at the edges, or develop spiderweb fractures from hard impacts. Engineered wood siding like LP SmartSide can dent or split along the grain if hit by a sharp object.
The immediate problem with cracked or punctured siding is obvious: it's no longer weathertight. But there's a secondary issue that's less visible — stress concentration. A crack in a siding panel creates a weak point where future thermal expansion, moisture cycling, and additional wind loads accelerate failure. A small crack this spring becomes a large split by next winter as freeze-thaw cycles work the material.
Here's what we look for during post-storm inspections:
- Vertical cracks in vinyl siding: Usually caused by impact or excessive stress from over-tight fasteners. These cracks propagate quickly, especially during temperature swings.
- Horizontal splits along the fastener line: Indicates that wind uplift has torn the panel at its weakest point. Even if the panel is still attached, it's compromised and will fail completely in the next storm.
- Corner cracks on fiber cement: Often caused by impact near the panel edge, where the material is most vulnerable. These require full panel replacement — patching doesn't work on fiber cement.
- Punctures with deformation: When you see a puncture surrounded by warped or buckled material, the substrate behind the siding may also be damaged. This requires more than just siding replacement.
- Multiple small cracks in a concentrated area: Suggests that the wall took a direct hit from a large object or sustained repeated impacts from wind-driven debris.
Michigan's freeze-thaw cycles make crack damage worse. Water enters through the crack, freezes, expands, and widens the crack. By spring, what was a hairline fracture in November has become a gaping split that requires panel replacement. This is particularly problematic on north-facing walls that stay frozen longer and experience more freeze-thaw cycles per season.
If you're comparing vinyl siding versus fiber cement for a replacement project, impact resistance is a real consideration. Fiber cement handles impacts better than vinyl, but it's also more expensive to replace when damage does occur because you typically need to replace entire panels rather than individual pieces.
Hidden Moisture Intrusion
The most expensive wind damage is the kind you can't see from your driveway. When wind compromises your siding's weather barrier — through lifted panels, separated seams, or damaged flashing — water finds its way into your wall cavity. And once it's in there, it doesn't announce itself with obvious signs until significant damage has already occurred.
Wind-driven rain is particularly insidious because it doesn't just fall vertically. During a storm with 40+ mph winds, rain hits your walls at a steep angle, finding every gap, crack, and penetration point. Water that would normally run down the face of your siding gets forced behind it through compromised seams, loose J-channels, or damaged flashing around windows and doors.
Here's what happens inside your wall when moisture gets past the siding:
Sheathing Damage: The OSB or plywood sheathing behind your siding starts to delaminate and rot when exposed to persistent moisture. In Michigan's humid summers, this happens fast — we've seen sheathing rot through in a single season when wind damage went unaddressed after a spring storm.
Insulation Saturation: Fiberglass batt insulation loses its R-value when wet and doesn't recover even after it dries. Blown-in cellulose insulation compacts and settles when saturated, creating gaps in your thermal envelope. Either way, your heating and cooling costs go up and your comfort goes down. If you're already dealing with under-insulation issues, moisture intrusion makes it exponentially worse.
Mold Growth: Michigan's humidity levels during summer provide perfect conditions for mold growth in damp wall cavities. Once mold establishes itself in your wall assembly, remediation requires tearing out affected materials — a much more expensive fix than addressing the siding damage that let water in.
Framing Deterioration: Wood studs and headers exposed to moisture begin to rot, compromising your home's structural integrity. This is particularly common around windows and doors where wind-driven rain penetrates damaged flashing and saturates the framing.
The challenge with moisture intrusion is that by the time you see interior evidence — water stains on drywall, peeling paint, musty odors, or visible mold — the damage inside your walls is already substantial. Professional inspection after wind events catches these problems early, before water has time to cause structural damage.
What to Look For: Signs of moisture intrusion include water stains on interior walls (especially near windows and corners), peeling or bubbling paint on interior surfaces, musty odors in rooms adjacent to exterior walls, visible mold growth on baseboards or lower wall sections, and warped or buckled siding panels that indicate moisture is trapped behind them.
During our inspections, we use moisture meters to check for elevated moisture levels in wall assemblies, even when there's no visible damage. If we find high readings, we know water is getting in somewhere, and we trace it back to the entry point — usually a compromised siding detail that needs immediate repair.
This is why we tell Port Huron homeowners not to wait weeks or months after a windstorm to schedule an inspection. Every rain event that happens while your siding is compromised puts more water into your walls. The difference between a $1,200 siding repair and a $8,000 wall reconstruction project is often just a matter of timing.
Fascia, Soffit, and Trim Damage
When homeowners inspect for wind damage, they usually focus on the main siding panels and miss the components that are often hit hardest: fascia boards, soffit panels, and trim pieces. These elements take direct wind pressure and are frequently the first to fail during severe storms.
Fascia boards — the vertical boards that run along your roofline where gutters attach — are particularly vulnerable because they're exposed to wind uplift from below and direct wind pressure from the side. When wind gets under your roof edge, it creates suction that can pull fascia boards away from the rafter tails. If your fascia is damaged or loose, your gutter system loses its attachment point, leading to gutter failure and water management problems.
Soffit panels — the horizontal panels under your roof overhangs — serve both aesthetic and functional purposes. They provide ventilation for your attic space while protecting the underside of your roof structure. Wind can rip soffit panels loose, bend them, or tear them completely off, especially on homes where the original installation used inadequate fasteners or where the panels have deteriorated from age and moisture exposure.
Here's what we check during fascia and soffit inspections:
- Fascia board attachment: We check whether fascia boards are securely fastened to rafter tails and look for signs of pulling away, rot at fastener points, or water damage from failed gutters.
- Soffit panel integrity: We inspect every soffit panel for cracks, missing sections, or panels that have bowed or separated from their mounting channels. Vented soffit panels get special attention because they're more vulnerable to wind pressure.
- Trim piece security: Window and door trim, corner trim, and decorative trim elements are checked for looseness, separation, or damage. These pieces are often held by minimal fasteners and can be ripped off by high winds.
- Flashing condition: We examine all flashing details where trim meets siding or where different materials intersect. Damaged or missing flashing is a direct path for water intrusion.
- Paint and finish condition: Peeling or bubbling paint on fascia or trim often indicates moisture problems that make the wood more vulnerable to wind damage and rot.
Damaged fascia and soffit aren't just cosmetic problems. Loose or missing soffit panels allow animals — squirrels, raccoons, bats, birds — to access your attic space. Damaged fascia compromises your gutter attachment and allows water to run behind the gutters, saturating the wood and causing rot. And compromised trim around windows and doors creates pathways for water intrusion that can damage interior finishes and framing.
We see this particularly often on older homes in Port Huron where the original wood fascia and soffit have never been replaced. After 30-40 years of Michigan weather, wood components deteriorate, fasteners corrode, and paint fails. When a severe windstorm hits, these weakened components fail first.
The good news is that fascia and soffit repairs are usually straightforward and relatively affordable when caught early. The bad news is that if you ignore damaged soffit and fascia, you end up with attic moisture problems, pest intrusions, and structural damage that cost exponentially more to fix. This is why our inspections always include a thorough assessment of these often-overlooked components.
When to Repair vs. Replace
After we complete a wind damage inspection, the question homeowners always ask is: "Can we just repair this, or does the whole thing need to be replaced?" It's a fair question, and the answer depends on several factors: the extent of damage, the age and condition of your existing siding, the availability of matching materials, and your long-term plans for the home.
Here's how we evaluate repair versus replacement decisions:
When Repair Makes Sense
Limited, localized damage: If wind damage is confined to one or two walls, and the rest of your siding is in good condition, targeted repair is usually the right call. We can replace damaged panels, re-secure loose sections, and restore weather protection without touching the undamaged areas.
Newer siding in good overall condition: If your siding is less than 10 years old and the damage is clearly storm-related rather than a symptom of broader deterioration, repair is typically cost-effective and sufficient.
Matching materials are available: For common siding profiles and colors, we can usually source matching panels for seamless repairs. This is easier with vinyl siding than with discontinued fiber cement profiles or custom colors.
No underlying installation deficiencies: If the damage occurred despite proper installation, repair addresses the problem. But if damage reveals installation shortcuts or code violations, repair without addressing those issues just sets you up for repeated failures.
When Replacement Makes More Sense
Widespread damage across multiple elevations: When wind damage affects three or four walls, or when damage is scattered across the entire house, the cost of comprehensive repairs often approaches the cost of full replacement — and replacement gives you a warranty and uniform appearance.
Siding is 20+ years old: If your existing siding is approaching the end of its service life, using wind damage as an opportunity to upgrade makes financial sense. You avoid paying for repairs on a system that will need replacement in the next few years anyway.
Mismatched repairs from previous damage: If your home already has patched or mismatched siding from previous repairs, adding more patchwork creates an increasingly inconsistent appearance. At some point, starting fresh makes more sense.
You're planning to sell: If you're preparing your home for sale in the next 1-3 years, new siding provides better ROI than patchwork repairs. Buyers notice mismatched siding and factor it into their offers.
Energy efficiency concerns: If your home has comfort or energy cost issues, wind damage can be an opportunity to upgrade to insulated siding that improves thermal performance while addressing the storm damage.
Insurance coverage: If your insurance company is covering the damage and your policy includes depreciation replacement coverage, you might be able to upgrade to better materials for minimal out-of-pocket cost.
The 50% Rule: In the construction industry, there's an informal guideline: if repairs will cost more than 50% of what full replacement would cost, replacement is usually the smarter choice. You get a complete warranty, uniform appearance, and the opportunity to upgrade materials and address any underlying issues with your wall assembly.
We've worked with homeowners who chose repair when replacement made more sense, and they ended up calling us back within two years for full replacement anyway. We've also worked with homeowners who insisted on full replacement when targeted repairs would have solved their problems for a fraction of the cost. Our job is to give you an honest assessment based on the actual condition of your home, not to upsell you on work you don't need.
For homeowners in Port Huron, Marysville, or St. Clair dealing with wind damage, we provide both repair and replacement estimates so you can make an informed decision based on real numbers, not guesswork. And if you're curious about what different siding options might cost for a full replacement, our guide to siding costs in Metro Detroit provides realistic pricing for Southeast Michigan homes.
What Professional Siding Repair Costs in St. Clair County
Let's talk real numbers. After a windstorm damages your siding, you need to know what you're looking at financially — whether you're paying out of pocket or filing an insurance claim.
Siding repair costs vary based on the extent of damage, the type of siding material, accessibility, and whether there's underlying damage to sheathing or framing. Here's what we typically see for wind damage repairs on Port Huron area homes in 2026:
Minor Repairs (1-3 panels, no structural damage)
- Vinyl siding: $300-$600 for panel replacement, including labor and materials
- Fiber cement siding: $500-$900 for panel replacement due to higher material costs and more labor-intensive installation
- Engineered wood siding: $400-$750 for panel replacement
These prices assume the damaged panels are easily accessible (no extensive ladder work or scaffolding) and that matching materials are readily available.
Moderate Repairs (one wall section, 50-100 sq ft)
- Vinyl siding: $1,200-$2,500 depending on the complexity of the area (windows, trim, corners)
- Fiber cement siding: $2,000-$4,000 due to higher material costs and installation requirements
- Engineered wood siding: $1,500-$3,200
Moderate repairs often include fascia or soffit work, trim replacement, and addressing flashing details around windows or doors.
Extensive Repairs (multiple walls, 200+ sq ft)
- Vinyl siding: $3,500-$7,000
- Fiber cement siding: $6,000-$12,000
- Engineered wood siding: $4,500-$9,000
At this scale, you're approaching full replacement territory, and it's worth getting estimates for both repair and complete re-siding to compare value.
Full Replacement (typical Port Huron area home, 1,500-2,000 sq ft)
- Vinyl siding: $8,000-$15,000
- Fiber cement (James Hardie): $18,000-$30,000
- Engineered wood (LP SmartSide): $12,000-$22,000
- Insulated vinyl siding: $12,000-$20,000
These ranges include removal of old siding, installation of new house wrap if needed, all trim and accessories, and proper flashing details. Prices vary based on home complexity, number of windows and doors, and specific material selections.
Additional Costs to Consider
Sheathing repair: If wind-driven moisture has damaged the OSB or plywood sheathing behind your siding, expect $800-$2,000 additional for sheathing replacement on affected areas.
Insulation replacement: Saturated insulation needs to be removed and replaced. Budget $400-$1,200 depending on the affected area and insulation type.
Fascia and soffit work: If your fascia boards or soffit panels sustained wind damage, add $1,200-$3,500 depending on the extent of damage and material choices.
Painting: If you're replacing wood siding or trim, factor in professional painting costs of $2,500-$5,000 for a typical home.
Insurance Considerations
Most homeowners insurance policies in Michigan cover wind damage to siding, but coverage details vary significantly. Here's what you need to know:
Replacement cost vs. actual cash value: Replacement cost policies pay to replace your damaged siding with new materials of similar quality. Actual cash value policies factor in depreciation, meaning you'll receive less money and need to cover the difference out of pocket.
Deductibles: Most policies have deductibles ranging from $500 to $2,500. If your damage estimate is close to your deductible, filing a claim might not be worth it due to potential premium increases.
Matching issues: Some insurance companies will only pay for the damaged section, even if matching materials aren't available. This can leave you with mismatched siding unless you negotiate for coverage of additional areas to achieve uniform appearance.
Documentation is critical: Insurance adjusters need clear evidence that damage was caused by a specific wind event. This is where professional inspection documentation from contractors like NEXT Exteriors becomes valuable — we provide detailed damage reports with photos that support your claim.
We work with insurance companies regularly and can provide the documentation and estimates they require. We don't do the insurance adjuster's job for them, but we make sure they have accurate information about the scope of damage and proper repair methods.
If you're comparing whether to repair or replace, our team provides detailed estimates for both options so you can make an informed decision. We've been serving St. Clair County since 1988, and we've seen every type of wind damage scenario. We know what repairs hold up and what repairs are just temporary fixes that cost you more in the long run.
Get a Professional Wind Damage Inspection
If your Port Huron area home took a hit from recent windstorms, don't wait for small problems to become expensive repairs. NEXT Exteriors provides thorough wind damage inspections and honest recommendations for repair or replacement. We've been protecting Michigan homes since 1988, and we know exactly what to look for after storms roll through St. Clair County.
Schedule Your Free InspectionOr call us directly: (844) 770-6398
Frequently Asked Questions About Wind Damage and Siding Inspection
Schedule an inspection within 1-2 weeks of a severe wind event if possible. The sooner you identify damage, the sooner you can prevent water intrusion and file insurance claims while the storm is well-documented. If you wait months, it becomes harder to prove that damage was caused by a specific storm, and moisture problems have more time to develop inside your walls.
You can do a basic ground-level inspection looking for obvious damage like missing panels or visible cracks. But professional inspection is necessary to identify hidden damage at the fastener lines, compromised flashing, moisture intrusion, and problems on upper walls that aren't visible from the ground. Professionals also provide the documentation you need for insurance claims. If you're filing a claim or if you suspect significant damage, professional inspection is worth the investment.
Most Michigan homeowners insurance policies cover wind damage to siding, but coverage details vary. Your policy might provide replacement cost coverage (pays for new materials) or actual cash value coverage (factors in depreciation). You'll need to pay your deductible, and the insurance company will want documentation proving the damage was caused by a specific wind event. We provide detailed inspection reports that support insurance claims and work with adjusters regularly to ensure homeowners get fair settlements.
Minor repairs (a few panels) can typically be completed in one day. Moderate repairs affecting one wall section might take 2-3 days. Extensive repairs or full replacement projects take 5-10 days depending on the size of your home and weather conditions. Timeline also depends on material availability — common vinyl siding colors are usually in stock, but custom colors or discontinued products can add weeks to the schedule while we source matching materials.
If your siding has been discontinued or we can't source an exact match, you have several options. For small repairs, we can sometimes blend a close match on a less-visible wall. For larger repairs, you might need to replace an entire wall section or elevation with new material to avoid obvious mismatches. In some cases, this is where insurance coverage becomes important — some policies will cover the cost of replacing additional sections to achieve uniform appearance when exact matches aren't available.
It depends on your siding's age and condition. If your siding is 20+ years old and showing signs of wear beyond the wind damage, replacement makes more sense than investing in repairs on a system nearing the end of its life. If you're planning to sell in the next few years, new siding provides better ROI than patched repairs. If your home has energy efficiency issues, upgrading to insulated siding during repair addresses multiple problems at once. We provide honest assessments and estimates for both repair and replacement so you can make an informed decision based on your specific situation.
Wind damage is sudden and event-specific — panels that were secure before a storm are loose or missing afterward, or you find new cracks and impact damage that weren't there previously. Normal wear and tear develops gradually over years: fading color, minor cracks from age and temperature cycling, or loose fasteners from decades of expansion and contraction. Insurance typically covers sudden wind damage but not gradual deterioration from age. This is why timing matters for inspections — documenting damage shortly after a storm helps establish that it was caused by that specific weather event rather than gradual aging.
The First 24 Hours After a Storm: Michigan Homeowner Checklist
What to do in the first 24 hours after a Michigan storm. Document damage, check your roof and siding, contact your insurance, and protect your home from further harm.
The storm just passed through Southeast Michigan. You heard the wind howling, watched hail hammer your windows, maybe saw a tree branch come down in the yard. Now it's quiet — and you're standing in your driveway wondering what just happened to your roof, siding, and gutters.
What you do in the next 24 hours matters. Not just for your insurance claim, but for preventing a $2,000 repair from turning into a $15,000 disaster because water got into your attic and sat there for three days.
We've been handling storm damage across Macomb, Oakland, and St. Clair counties since 1988. We've seen homeowners do everything right — and we've seen them make mistakes that cost them thousands. This is the checklist we wish every homeowner had taped to their refrigerator before severe weather hits.
Immediate Safety Assessment (First 2 Hours)
Before you grab your phone to take pictures, before you climb any ladders, before you do anything — check for these safety hazards:
Downed power lines. If you see a line on the ground, in a tree, or touching your roof, stay inside and call DTE or Consumers Energy immediately. Assume every downed line is live. Don't touch tree branches or debris near power lines. We've seen homeowners in Rochester Hills try to move a branch off their roof without realizing it was tangled with a service line.
Gas leaks. If you smell gas (that rotten egg odor), leave the house immediately. Don't flip light switches, don't use your phone inside — just get out and call 911 from a safe distance. Storm winds can shift gas meters and crack supply lines.
Structural instability. Look at your roofline from the street. Does it sag anywhere? Are there visible holes? Is part of your chimney missing? If your roof looks compromised, don't go in the attic. Water damage is bad, but a roof collapse is worse.
Standing water and electrical hazards. If your basement flooded and you have power, don't wade into water near your electrical panel or appliances. Shut off power at the main breaker if you can do so safely from dry ground.
Michigan-Specific Hazard: After severe summer storms in Metro Detroit, we often see homeowners rush outside while there's still lightning in the area. Wait 30 minutes after the last thunder before going outside to assess damage. The National Weather Service's "30-30 rule" applies here — if you see lightning and hear thunder within 30 seconds, you're still in the strike zone.
Exterior Damage Documentation (Hours 2-6)
Once it's safe to go outside, your job is to become a crime scene investigator — except the crime is what the storm just did to your house. Your insurance adjuster won't see the damage for days, maybe weeks if the storm hit a wide area. The documentation you create right now determines whether your claim gets approved or denied.
Roof Damage
From the ground, look for:
- Missing or lifted shingles. You'll see exposed black underlayment or bare wood decking. In Michigan's summer storms, we often see entire sections of architectural shingles peeled back like opening a can of sardines.
- Granule loss. Check your gutters and downspouts. If they're full of dark, sand-like granules, your shingles took a beating. Hail strips granules off asphalt shingles, which accelerates UV degradation. If you lost more than 30% of the granule layer, most insurance companies will authorize a full roof replacement.
- Dented or damaged flashing. Look at the metal trim around chimneys, vents, and roof valleys. Hail dents in flashing often mean there's hidden damage to the shingles underneath.
- Debris impact damage. Tree branches, patio furniture, even your neighbor's trampoline — we've seen it all end up on roofs during Michigan windstorms. Photograph any punctures or crushed areas.
Don't climb on your roof to inspect it yourself. Wet shingles are slippery, and you can cause more damage by walking on compromised materials. If you need a close-up view, use a drone or hire a Detroit roofing services professional with proper safety equipment.
Siding Damage
Walk around your entire house. Photograph every elevation (front, back, both sides). Look for:
- Cracks in vinyl siding. Hail impact creates spiderweb cracks that are easy to miss from 10 feet away. Get close-up photos with a reference object (like a quarter) to show scale.
- Dents in fiber cement or metal siding. James Hardie and LP SmartSide siding can withstand hail better than vinyl, but large hailstones (1+ inch diameter) will still leave visible damage.
- Holes or punctures. Tree branches, flying debris, even large hail can punch through siding panels.
- Loose or missing panels. High winds can rip siding off the house, especially if the original installation wasn't done correctly. We see this frequently on older homes in Warren and Sterling Heights where the siding was installed in the 1980s without proper fastening.
If you're planning to file a claim, document every damaged panel. Insurance adjusters count individual pieces — if you have 12 cracked vinyl siding panels but only photograph 6, you're leaving money on the table. For more context on hail damage in Michigan and when insurance helps, we've covered the specifics in detail.
Window and Gutter Damage
Windows: Check for cracked glass, broken seals (you'll see condensation between double-pane glass), and damaged frames. If a window broke during the storm, photograph it before you board it up. Measure the opening and note the window type (double-hung, casement, etc.) for replacement estimates.
Gutters: Look for sections that pulled away from the fascia, dents from hail, and downspouts that disconnected. Michigan's freeze-thaw cycles already stress gutter systems — a severe storm can be the final straw for gutters that were already marginal. If your seamless gutters in Detroit, MI took a beating, document every damaged section.
Photography Best Practices
Take way more photos than you think you need. Here's the system we recommend:
- Wide shots first. Capture the entire house from the street, showing context and overall condition.
- Then medium shots. Each side of the house, each roof section, each elevation of siding.
- Then close-ups. Individual shingles, siding cracks, gutter damage. Get close enough that the damage is obvious.
- Include a reference object. A coin, a ruler, your hand — something to show scale. A 1-inch hail dent looks like nothing in a photo without context.
- Use timestamps if possible. Many phone cameras embed time and location data. If yours doesn't, take a photo of today's newspaper or your phone's lock screen showing the date.
- Shoot video walkarounds. A 2-minute video where you narrate what you're seeing ("Here's the north side of the roof, you can see at least 15 shingles missing...") provides context that photos alone can't.
Contacting Insurance & Contractors (Hours 6-12)
You've documented the damage. Now it's time to start the claims process and line up professional help.
Call Your Insurance Company First
Report the claim within 24 hours. Most homeowner policies require "prompt notice" of damage — waiting a week can give your insurer grounds to deny coverage. When you call:
- Have your policy number ready
- Describe the storm event (date, time, type of weather)
- List all damaged areas (roof, siding, gutters, windows)
- Ask about your deductible and coverage limits
- Ask if emergency repairs (like tarping a damaged roof) are covered and what the spending limit is
- Request the claim number and adjuster contact information
Don't downplay the damage. If you say "I think maybe a few shingles are loose," the adjuster will show up expecting minor wear and tear. If you say "I have significant roof damage with multiple missing shingles and exposed underlayment," they'll take it seriously.
Find a Licensed Michigan Contractor
After major storms, out-of-state "storm chasers" flood Metro Detroit. They knock on doors, offer to handle your insurance claim, and promise to get you a new roof for "just your deductible." Many are unlicensed, uninsured, and will disappear the moment they cash your check.
Look for these credentials:
- Michigan Residential Builder's License. This is non-negotiable. Anyone doing exterior work on your home needs to be licensed by the State of Michigan. Ask for the license number and verify it at michigan.gov/lara.
- Liability insurance and workers' compensation. If someone gets hurt on your property and the contractor doesn't have workers' comp, you're liable. Get certificates of insurance before any work starts.
- Local references and a physical address. A PO box and an out-of-state phone number are red flags. You want a contractor who's been in Southeast Michigan for years and will still be here when you need warranty work.
- Manufacturer certifications. For roofing, credentials like CertainTeed Master Shingle Applicator or GAF Master Elite mean the contractor has met strict training and quality standards. These aren't participation trophies — they require proven installation expertise and a track record of successful projects.
NEXT Exteriors holds the CertainTeed Master Shingle Applicator credential (the highest level in the industry), carries full insurance, and has been operating in Metro Detroit since 1988. We're not going anywhere. When you need exterior services in Detroit, you want a contractor who'll answer the phone five years from now.
Red Flag: Any contractor who offers to "eat your deductible" or waive it entirely is committing insurance fraud. Michigan law is clear — if your policy has a $1,000 deductible, you owe $1,000. A contractor who inflates the claim to cover your deductible is lying to your insurance company, and you're on the hook if they get caught.
Get Multiple Estimates
Before your insurance adjuster arrives, get at least two written estimates from licensed contractors. This gives you leverage if the adjuster's initial assessment is low. Contractors who work with insurance claims regularly know what adjusters look for and can document damage the homeowner might miss.
A good estimate includes:
- Itemized scope of work (e.g., "Remove and replace 32 squares of CertainTeed Landmark shingles")
- Material specifications (brand, color, product line)
- Labor costs broken out separately
- Timeline for completion
- Warranty information (both manufacturer and workmanship)
Temporary Protection Measures (Hours 12-24)
Your insurance claim is filed, you've got contractors coming out for estimates, but the damaged roof is still exposed. If rain is in the forecast, you need to prevent further damage right now.
Emergency Roof Tarping
If you have missing shingles or holes in your roof, a tarp can prevent water intrusion until permanent repairs are made. Here's how to do it safely:
- Use a heavy-duty poly tarp, not a cheap blue tarp. You want at least 6-mil thickness. A lightweight tarp will shred in the first windstorm.
- The tarp should extend at least 4 feet beyond the damaged area in all directions. Water runs downhill — if your tarp only covers the hole, water will flow under the edges.
- Secure it properly. Don't just throw the tarp over the roof and hope for the best. Use 2x4 boards as battens, sandwiching the tarp edge between the board and the roof. Screw the boards into the roof deck (not just the shingles). Yes, you're putting holes in your roof — but controlled fastener holes are better than wind ripping the tarp off.
- Don't tarp over the ridge. If possible, run the tarp from the damaged area down to the eave, not over the peak. Tarps that cross the ridge act like sails in high wind.
If you're not comfortable working on a roof (and most homeowners shouldn't be), call a licensed contractor for emergency tarping. Most insurance policies cover reasonable emergency repairs to prevent further damage — keep receipts and photos of the work.
Boarding Up Broken Windows
A broken window is an invitation for weather, animals, and unfortunately, theft. Cover it immediately:
- Use 1/2-inch plywood, not cardboard or plastic sheeting
- Cut the plywood to overlap the window frame by at least 2 inches on all sides
- Screw it into the frame, not just the siding — you want a secure attachment
- If the glass is still in the frame but cracked, tape it with duct tape in an X pattern to prevent it from falling out before you can board it
If you need window replacement in Detroit after the storm, document the damage before you remove the broken glass. Your insurance adjuster needs to see what happened.
Redirect Water Away from the Foundation
If your gutters are damaged or disconnected, water is pouring off your roof and landing right next to your foundation. In Michigan's clay-heavy soil, that's a recipe for basement flooding.
Temporary fixes:
- Use downspout extensions or even just lengths of PVC pipe to channel water at least 6 feet away from the house
- If a gutter section pulled away from the fascia, prop it up with a 2x4 or temporarily reattach it with deck screws (not nails — they'll just pull out again)
- Clear debris from remaining gutters so water can flow to the downspouts instead of overflowing
These aren't permanent solutions, but they'll buy you time until you can get proper gutter installation in Metro Detroit scheduled.
What NOT to Do After a Storm
In 35+ years of storm damage work, we've seen homeowners make the same mistakes over and over. Here's what to avoid:
Don't wait to file your claim. "I'll see if it gets worse" is a terrible strategy. Storm damage doesn't heal itself — it gets worse. File the claim within 24 hours, even if you're not sure how bad it is. You can always withdraw a claim if the damage is minor. You can't go back in time if you wait three weeks and your adjuster says "this doesn't look like storm damage."
Don't sign anything from a door-knocker. After the 2021 hailstorms in Macomb County, we saw contractors going door-to-door with contracts that gave them power of attorney over homeowners' insurance claims. Read that again — they wanted legal authority to negotiate with your insurance company on your behalf. Never sign a contract with a contractor you didn't research and choose yourself.
Don't make permanent repairs before the adjuster sees the damage. If you replace your roof before the insurance adjuster inspects it, you've destroyed the evidence. The adjuster will say "I don't see any storm damage" and deny your claim. Emergency tarping is fine — permanent repairs are not. If you're worried about further damage, document everything and get written approval from your insurance company before proceeding.
Don't assume your insurance will cover everything. Most homeowner policies have depreciation clauses, coverage limits, and exclusions. A 15-year-old roof might only get partial replacement value. Cosmetic damage (like hail dents on siding that don't affect function) might not be covered at all. Read your policy and ask questions before you're surprised by a lowball settlement offer.
Don't hire based on price alone. The lowest bid is usually the worst bid. A contractor who's $3,000 cheaper than everyone else is cutting corners somewhere — substandard materials, unlicensed labor, no insurance, or all of the above. When you're dealing with siding services in Metro Detroit, quality matters more than saving a few hundred dollars.
When to Call a Licensed Contractor Immediately
Some damage requires professional attention within hours, not days. Call a licensed contractor right away if you see:
- Active water intrusion. If water is dripping from your ceiling or running down your walls, you have a roof or flashing failure that needs emergency attention. Every hour you wait increases the risk of mold, rot, and structural damage.
- Structural deformation. A sagging roofline, a leaning chimney, or a wall that's bowing outward means you have structural damage. This isn't a DIY situation — you need an engineer's assessment and immediate shoring before someone gets hurt.
- Large debris on the roof. If a tree branch (or worse, a whole tree) is resting on your roof, don't try to remove it yourself. The weight might be the only thing holding a damaged section together. A contractor with proper equipment can safely remove debris without causing a collapse.
- Exposed roof decking. If you can see bare plywood or OSB sheathing from the ground, your roof has lost its weather barrier. This needs tarping or emergency patching within hours to prevent water damage to your attic insulation and ceiling drywall.
- Siding blown off the house. Missing siding panels expose your wall sheathing and insulation to moisture. In Michigan's humid summers, exposed wall cavities can develop mold in 24-48 hours. Get it covered immediately.
For urgent situations, NEXT Exteriors offers emergency response for storm damage across Southeast Michigan. We'll stabilize your home, document everything for your insurance claim, and provide a detailed estimate for permanent repairs. Call (844) 770-6398 if you need immediate help.
Cost Reality: Storm Damage Repairs in Michigan
Let's talk numbers. What does it actually cost to fix storm damage in Metro Detroit?
Roof replacement: For a typical 2,000-square-foot home (about 20 squares of roofing), expect $8,000-$15,000 for a full tear-off and replacement with architectural shingles. That includes removal of the old roof, new underlayment, new shingles (CertainTeed Landmark, GAF Timberline HDZ, or Owens Corning Duration), ice and water shield in valleys and eaves, and new ridge vents. Higher-end products like CertainTeed's Landmark Premium or designer shingles add $2,000-$4,000.
If you're comparing costs in specific areas, we've written about roof considerations for Bloomfield Hills homes and the unique challenges of older housing stock.
Siding repair: Replacing individual vinyl siding panels runs $3-$6 per square foot installed, but here's the catch — if your siding is more than 10 years old, finding an exact color match is nearly impossible. Vinyl fades over time, and manufacturers discontinue colors. You might end up replacing an entire wall to avoid a patchwork appearance. Full siding replacement ranges from $8,000-$18,000 depending on material choice. For context on fiber cement siding options like James Hardie vs. LP SmartSide, we've broken down the cost and performance differences.
Window replacement: A standard double-hung vinyl replacement window costs $400-$700 installed. Casement windows run $500-$900. If you're upgrading to energy-efficient models with low-E glass and argon fill (which you should in Michigan's climate), add 15-20% to those numbers. Replacing all the windows in a 2,000-square-foot home typically runs $8,000-$15,000.
Gutter replacement: Seamless aluminum gutters cost $8-$12 per linear foot installed. A typical home needs 150-200 feet of gutter, so figure $1,200-$2,400 for a complete system with downspouts and hangers. Upgrading to 6-inch gutters (which handle Michigan's heavy rainfalls better than standard 5-inch) adds about $2 per foot.
Emergency tarping: Professional emergency tarping runs $300-$800 depending on roof size and accessibility. That's a small price to pay to prevent $5,000 of water damage to your attic and ceilings.
Insurance Deductible Reality: Most Michigan homeowner policies have a 1% or 2% deductible for wind and hail claims. On a $300,000 home, that's $3,000-$6,000 out of pocket. If your total damage is less than your deductible, filing a claim doesn't make financial sense — you'll pay for the repairs yourself and potentially see your premiums increase at renewal. If the damage is close to your deductible amount, get a detailed estimate before deciding whether to file.
What Insurance Typically Covers (and Doesn't)
Usually covered:
- Sudden storm damage (wind, hail, falling trees)
- Emergency repairs to prevent further damage (tarping, boarding up windows)
- Water damage that results from covered storm damage (like a roof leak from missing shingles)
- Debris removal
Usually NOT covered:
- Wear and tear or deferred maintenance (your 25-year-old roof that failed wasn't storm damage, it was old age)
- Cosmetic damage that doesn't affect function (hail dents on siding might not be covered if the siding still protects the house)
- Damage from lack of maintenance (if your gutters were clogged and water backed up into your soffit, that's on you)
- Improvements or upgrades beyond the original condition (if you had 3-tab shingles and want architectural shingles, you pay the difference)
Every policy is different. Read yours carefully and ask your agent specific questions about your coverage before assuming everything will be covered.
Storm Damage? We Can Help.
NEXT Exteriors has been handling storm damage restoration across Southeast Michigan since 1988. We work directly with insurance companies, document everything properly, and get the job done right the first time. No pressure, no gimmicks — just honest work from a licensed Michigan contractor.
Get Your Free EstimateOr call us 24/7 for emergency service: (844) 770-6398
Frequently Asked Questions
Most homeowner policies require "prompt notice" but don't specify an exact deadline. Best practice: file within 24-48 hours of discovering damage. Some policies have a one-year statute of limitations for filing claims, but waiting weeks or months makes it harder to prove the damage was storm-related. The adjuster will ask "why didn't you report this sooner?" and might deny the claim if they suspect pre-existing damage.
Yes. Having a detailed estimate from a licensed contractor gives you leverage if the adjuster's assessment is low. Adjusters work for the insurance company, not for you — their job is to settle claims for as little as possible. A contractor who specializes in insurance work knows what to look for and can document damage the adjuster might miss or downplay. Get at least two estimates before the adjuster arrives.
You have the right to choose your own contractor. Some insurance companies have "preferred vendor" lists, but you're not required to use them. In fact, contractors on those lists often have agreements to work within the insurance company's pricing guidelines, which might not reflect actual market rates in Southeast Michigan. Choose a licensed, insured contractor with local references and manufacturer certifications — not whoever your insurance company recommends.
This happens frequently. Insurance companies often use software that generates estimates based on regional averages, which don't account for your specific home's conditions or local material costs. If the settlement is too low, you have options: negotiate with the adjuster using your contractor's detailed estimate, request a re-inspection, or file an appeal with the insurance company. If that fails, you can hire a public adjuster (they take 10-15% of the settlement) or consult an attorney. Most disputes get resolved before it reaches that point if you have solid documentation.
It depends on the scope of work and weather. A roof replacement takes 1-3 days in good weather. Full siding replacement takes 5-10 days. Window replacement is usually 1-2 days. The bigger delay is usually insurance approval and material availability. After major storms, roofing materials can be on backorder for weeks. Emergency tarping and stabilization should happen within 24-48 hours. Permanent repairs might take 2-6 weeks from claim approval to completion.
Maybe. Homeowner insurance rates are based on claims history, but storm damage claims (wind, hail, lightning) are usually treated differently than liability claims. Some insurers won't raise your rates for a single weather-related claim, especially if the storm was a widespread event that affected hundreds of homes. Others will. Ask your agent before filing. If your damage is less than 1.5 times your deductible, it might not be worth filing — you'll pay most of it out of pocket anyway and risk a rate increase.
Actual Cash Value (ACV) pays for repairs minus depreciation. If your 15-year-old roof costs $12,000 to replace but has depreciated 50%, you get $6,000. Replacement Cost Coverage pays the full cost to replace damaged materials with new ones of similar quality, regardless of age. Most policies pay ACV initially, then reimburse the depreciation after repairs are complete and you submit receipts. Always choose replacement cost coverage if it's available — the premium difference is small compared to the out-of-pocket expense if you only have ACV.
Final Thoughts: Preparation Beats Panic
The best time to prepare for storm damage is before the storm hits. Keep your contractor's contact information handy. Know where your insurance policy is and what it covers. Take photos of your home's exterior every year so you have "before" documentation if something happens.
But if you're reading this because the storm just passed and you're standing in your driveway wondering what to do next — you're already ahead of most homeowners. Follow this checklist, document everything, and don't rush into decisions because a door-knocker pressured you.
NEXT Exteriors has been helping Michigan homeowners recover from storm damage since 1988. We've seen every type of weather-related disaster this state can throw at us — from the 1997 windstorms that took down thousands of trees to the 2014 hailstorms that damaged roofs across Macomb County. We know how to work with insurance companies, we know Michigan building codes, and we know how to get your home protected before the next storm rolls through.
If you need help assessing damage, filing a claim, or getting repairs done right, we're here. No pressure, no gimmicks — just straight talk from a contractor who's been doing this longer than most of our competitors have been alive.
Whether you need house siding installation in Detroit, top-rated insulation services to improve energy efficiency after repairs, or Southeast Michigan's painting professionals to finish the job, we handle all your exterior needs under one roof. Literally.
Stay safe out there. And if the next storm looks bad, get inside early and wait it out. Your roof will still be there when it's over — and if it's not, now you know exactly what to do.